Hanging curtains in a unit may seem paradoxical when considering the security deposit for any drill hole. However, there are various no-drill techniques to achieve useable window coverings. The best no-drill technique for your window coverings will depend on how long you expect to stay, your window type, and the weight of your curtains.

Quick Summary: Which Methods Work For You?

Tension rods are best for windows with frames that are at least 2 inches deep. They are good for small to medium windows, with curtain weights of 5-15 pounds, and typically cost 10 to 30 bucks.

Adhesive hooks are good when you want to hang lightweight sheer curtains much higher and wider than the window. They cost 5 to 15 bucks, but are limited to supporting 1 to 7 pounds each.

Hook-over-frame brackets are better than tension rods when you expect to hang medium weight curtains.

Metal entry doors and metal window frames are best with magnetic rods, that only support 5-10 pounds, but cost 15 to 30 bucks.

Regardless of your chosen method, opt for lightweight materials, such as voile, sheer polyester, lightweight cotton, and unlined panels. Do not select velvet, chenille, or heavy multi-layer blackout curtains, as they typically exceed the weight limit of most no-drill hardware.

Tension Rods

Tension rods are the most flexible and adaptable no-drill option. They are spring-loaded rods designed to fit and hold themselves in place inside a window frame, and they attach to any wall surface without additional hardware.

Before you begin, though, please confirm your window frame is at least a minimum of 2 inches deep. Tension rods require solid surfaces on either side of the rod and spring to have something to press against. If you have a window sill or a frame that’s a shallow 2 inches, you won’t provide enough surface to grip.

What You Need

• A tension rod that is sized for your window (Keep in mind the adjustment range on the package.)
• Measuring tape
• Your curtain, already threaded onto the rod or attached with clip rings

Installation Steps

Step 1: Measure the inside width of your window frame with a measuring tape. Measure inside the frame where you want the rod to sit, and jot down that exact measurement. Make sure your tension rod adjustment range can exceed this range.

Step 2: Slide your curtain onto the rod before you install it. If your curtain has a pocket, slide it through the rod pocket. If your curtain does not have a pocket, attach the clip rings to the curtain rod and attach the curtain rings to the curtain. You do not have the ability to add the curtains once the rod has been mounted.

Step 3: Extend the rod to be half an inch longer than the width measurement. Twist the body of the rod to extend it. This additional rod length will create the spring tension to hold the rod in place.

Step 4: Compress the entire rod and place it inside your window frame. Position it horizontally so that both ends of the rod press against both sides of the frame.

Step 5: Release the rod and it will spring pressing against both sides of the frame. Make sure that the ends of both sides of the rod are level and resting against the frame.

Step 6: Give the curtain a gentle pull and see if the rod slips or if it stays in position. If the rod stays in position, you are free to walk away. If the rod has moved, take it out and extend it more before installing again. If the rod still does not remain in position, your curtains might be too heavy.

Troubleshooting

Rod keeps falling? The curtain may be too heavy, or the rod may not be extended enough. Consider heavy duty tension rods with center support brackets or swap the current curtains with lighter alternatives.

Rod slides down gradually? The frame may be too slick. You may want to find rods with rubber-tipped ends to better grip the frame and prevent scratches while protecting the surface.

How to Install Adhesive Hooks

You can use adhesive hooks to mount curtains outside of the window frame, giving the illusion that the window is taller and wider. However, the downside is there’s less weight capacity overall, so it’s best to use sheer and lightweight panels.

Smooth, painted walls allow adhesive hooks to bond easily. On the other hand, hooks do not stick to textured walls, wallpaper, walls in humid rooms like bathrooms, or fresh paint. Fresh paint requires at least a full week’s drying time.

What You Need

• Rubbing alcohol and a cloth
• A lightweight curtain rod
• Your curtains
• Curtain rod hooks that can hold the weight on the packaging

Installation Steps

Step 1: Wipe the surface to be adhered to and thoroughly clean it with rubbing alcohol. If this step is skipped, the surface is not cleaned properly and the adhesive hooks will fail.

Step 2: Decide where to put the hooks. A standard way to do this is to measure vertically 4-6 inches above the window frame and horizontally 3-6 inches to the side. Measure from the floor to your marks so that you can be sure everything is level.

Step 3: For the first hook, slowly remove the adhesive backing.

Step 4: For 30 seconds, firmly press the hook down to the wall. Make sure to apply sustained pressure on the full surface of the hook, including the center.

Step 5: Make sure the second hook is aligned horizontally with the first hook, then repeat the previous step. If you are using extra hooks to distribute weight, you should install them now.

Step 6: If possible, wait until the next day to hang something on the hooks. The adhesive takes some time to set and fully cure. One hour is the minimum.

Step 7: First, thread the curtain on the rod. Then, place the curtain rod on the hooks.

How to Remove the Hooks Without Damage

If you have to remove the hooks when you move out, look for the pull tab on the adhesive backing. Pull the tab slowly and horizontally, and keep it parallel to the wall while you do to release the hook easily without damage.

How to Install Hook-Over-Frame Brackets

These mounting brackets hug the top of the window frame, allowing for the mounting of a curtain rod without any screws, nails, or tape. Hook-over-frame brackets can support more weight than other options without the use of adhesive, allowing for the mounting of medium-weight curtains that could easily pull down tension rods or adhesive hooks.

First, determine if your windows are compatible. Look at the top of the window frame. There should be a small gap between the frame and the wall, and the frame should have a distinguishable lip or edge that a bracket can hook onto. Modern windows with flush frames, or windows with thick, ornate trim, may not be compatible with these brackets.

What You Need

• Hook-over-frame brackets (sold in pairs)
• Curtain rod that is compatible with your brackets
• Measuring tape
• Rubber mallet (or the palm of your hand)
• Your curtains

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Get a close look at your window frame. Run your finger along the top of the window frame. Look for a gap between the frame and wall. Without a gap, the brackets will not be able to slide into place. If the frame of your window fits flush against the wall, or does not leave any gap, these brackets are unlikely to work for your windows.

Step 2: Start by positioning the first bracket at one corner. You should place this part above the top edge of the frame. The rod holder should extend downward past the frame and over your curtain.

Step 3: Tap the bracket into place. Place your palm on the top edge of the bracket and push down slowly and smoothly until it feels snug. Make sure it is secure on the frame and should feel like it is one. Do not push down too hard as it may damage the frame.

Step 4: Measure and install the second bracket. Measure the distance from the floor to the rod holder on the first bracket. Match this height on the opposite side of the window. Tap the second bracket into place.

Step 5: Confirm that both brackets are level. Rest the rod on the holders without the curtains. Stand back and see if it looks even. If necessary, adjust by tapping the brackets to raise or lower them.

Step 6: Hang your curtains on the rod and place it in the holders. Take the rod down, drape your curtain(s) over the rod, and place the rod back into the bracket holders.

Troubleshooting

Brackets won’t stay in place? Your frame may not have enough of a lip to grip. Try repositioning, or understand that this method isn’t working for your specific windows.

Rod sits at an angle? One bracket is higher than the other. Take off the rod, tap the higher bracket down, and try again.

Magnetic Rods: Installation Steps

Magnetic rods attach to metal surfaces, thanks to strong magnets on each end. They are the easiest installation option, but only if you have metal surfaces.

Check the setup first. These rods work for metal entry doors, metal storm doors, metal window frames (older ones, mostly), and metal-clad patio doors.

What You Need

• Magnetic curtain rod scaled for your door or window
• Curtains

Installation Guide

Step 1: Thread your curtain onto the rod. Do this before mounting. Most magnetic rods do not have removable curtain access once mounted.

Step 2: Hold the rod near the metal surface. You’ll feel the magnets pulling as you get close. Hold it at the desired placement height.

Step 3: Release the rod and let the magnets grab the metal surface. After, the rod should hold itself.

Step 4: Adjust position if needed. The magnets let you slide the rod left, right, up, or down while attached. Fine-tune placement without requiring removal.

Step 5: Verify mount before letting go. Give the curtain a gentle pull. If the rod slides down or releases, the curtain is too heavy for magnetic mounting. In this case, switch to a lighter curtain.

Limitations

These magnetic rods don’t work with non-ferrous metals such as aluminum, brass, and copper. Many window frames are made of aluminum, which is non-magnetic. Steel, on the other hand, is a ferrous metal and will work with magnetic rods. To confirm whether or not your surface is truly magnetic, you can test it with a refrigerator magnet.

Better Alternatives for Blackout Needs

The more traditional heavy blackout curtains often exceed the weight limits of most no-drill hardware. However, if you truly need darkness to sleep, consider these alternatives.

Adhesive blackout shades are easy to install. They stick to the window frame and cover the whole window to block all light, but without the weight.

Blackout liner can be added to cover the back of the lightweight curtains you already have.

Light blocking fabrics have constructed tight weaves but don’t have heavy coatings. Look for blackout woven, three-pass, or lightweight options. These are significantly better than the foam-backed or rubber-coated blackout material but still remain lightweight.

Conclusion

No-drill curtain hanging is simple since there are many methods. Use a tension rod for most windows. An outside mount is possible with adhesive hooks for lightweight curtains. Use hook-over-frame brackets for heavier curtains, but make sure your window is compatible. If you match the curtain weight and follow the steps, you can get fully functional window coverings that are damage-free and leave no trace when you move