How to hang your curtains is just as important as the curtains you choose. The wrong mounting technique can lead to sagging fabric, damaged walls, and an overall frustrating experience. This guide outlines every curtain mounting technique by contact point, so you can better match your selection to your window, your curtains, and your living situation.

Quick Reference

Wall-Mounted Options

Wall mounting is preferred by curtain hangers who want to control the positioning and placement of the curtain rods and hangers, and have medium to heavy drapery. This is the optimal choice for home users and the most versatile option.

Mounting brackets to the wall above your window means you have control over the positioning of your curtains on the wall. Designers suggest hanging curtain rods 4 to 6 inches above the window frame and extending 3 to 6 inches on both ends. This technique makes the window look taller, and also allows curtains to be pulled to the side and stacked off the glass when opened.

The kind of wall that you have will impact how you have the curtains installed. If you have drywall, that will be the most convenient and can be installed with simple anchors. If you have plaster walls, which are common in older homes, you will require toggle bolts as that is a more sturdy solution. Concrete and brick walls will need some more advanced tools including masonry bits.

For curtains that are heavier such as blackout or velvet, hitting a wall stud with at least one bracket is a must. One curtain panel can weigh anywhere from 5 to 15 pounds, and so that will also create some significant outward pulling as opposed to just straight down. If you are using drywall anchors, they do have a weight limit, meaning that the curtain will lead to a drooping rod on the ground.

Cost: $15-$50 for a rod and bracket set at a basic level. $50 to $150 for more heavy duty and decorative options.

Tools needed: Level, stud finder, pencil, measuring tape, and a drill. If you are new to drilling, you should assume that it may take more time. Expect around 30 to 60 minutes to install the curtains for a reasonable sized window, and potentially more for bigger windows.

Drawbacks: Holes are left which will require some repair and painting if you decide to remove the curtains at some point. If you have long rods that span across wide windows, 2 people will be required for the install.

Options for Mounting on the Ceiling

If your curtains hang close to the ceiling, there isn't a lot of wall space, or there is a desire to create a long visual line on the curtains to the floor, then go for the option of mounting the curtains to the ceiling.

Hanging curtains from the ceiling also add a line to the room creating the illusion of height. This works particularly well with 8-foot ceiling rooms and long floor-length curtains. Crown molding, sloped ceilings, and alcoved rooms often also work better with ceiling-mounted tracks or rods.

There is a similar process for installation as with the wall, with one key difference. Ceiling mounts need to hit joists for adequate support. A ceiling mount bears weight at an angle that puts more stress on the fasteners. Drywall anchors in ceilings fail more often than in walls, so hitting joists is essential for ceiling mounts.

Track systems are more common for ceiling mounts than traditional rods. They can curve around corners, span long distances, and support multiple curtain layers. For example, the hardware used for track systems in hospital rooms for privacy curtains or in bay windows also works in residential settings.

Cost: Basic ceiling rod fittings will run you about $30 to $80. Track systems are $50 to $200 depending on length and features.

Tools needed: Drill, stud finder, level, ladder and measuring tape. Make sure to schedule about 45 to 90 minutes. Working overhead takes longer and is more tiring than installing on a wall.

Drawbacks: It's more complicated to install than wall mounts; it usually requires hitting joists; and it usually takes two people. One person must hold the track in position while the other does the marking and drilling.

Frame-Mounted Options

If you need to keep the curtains within the window frame, can't drill holes into the walls, or are looking for a fast option more suitable for a rental, choose frame-mounting.

There are a few processes that fall under this category, as they involve attaching hardware directly to the window frame, as opposed to the wall or ceiling around the window.

Spring Tension Rods

Spring tension rods fit within a window frame using friction. They are a top choice in these situations because they are quick and easy.

The only downside to a tension rod is the weight of the curtains to hang. Tension rods usually support curtains within the 10 to 12 pound range, and even below that they fail if the frame is poorly maintained, uneven, or off square. Lightweight sheer and cafe curtains are appropriate, however, if you attempt to hang a heavy blackout curtain, you can expect the curtain to fail within a few weeks.

If the window frame is metal, it can be too slippery for the rod to hold tension. Likewise, too soft wooden window frames won't hold the tension. Flat and relatively parallel surfaces keep the rod secure, and it's good to measure the width of a window frame as tension rods are made in specific size ranges.

Cost: $8 to $25, depending on size and quality of the rod.

Tools needed: Measuring tape, though not essential. Installation duration is between 5 to 10 minutes.

Inside-Mount Brackets

Inside-mount brackets attach directly to the inside top or sides of the window frame. This gives a more polished look than outside mounting as it keeps everything within the window opening. This makes the curtains look built-in rather than an add-on.

Inside mounting requires adequate depth of your window frame. Most curtain hardware needs a minimum of 2 inches of depth to fit, some need more. Measure the window frame depth to the window glass before assuming inside mount will work.

This mounting style has the drawback of leaving gaps where the frame meets the curtain, which light may leak through.

Cost: $20 to $60 for inside mounting brackets.

Tools needed: Drill, measuring tape, level. Duration: 20 to 40 minutes.

Magnetic Rods

Magnetic curtain rods attach to metal window frames or metal doors, often seen on steel entry doors that feature a glass panel. The magnets hold the curtain rod in place without any installation work.

Just like tension rods, weight limits are low. Attachments are only as strong as the magnets and the metal surface. Painted metal frames tend to hold magnets less securely than unpainted steel.

Cost: $15 to $35.

Tools needed: None. Can be installed in under five minutes.

Drawbacks for all frame-mounted options: Limited to low/medium weight capacity; certain window types only; light leakage with inside mount.

Freestanding and Temporary Options

Use these options when you cannot attach anything to walls, ceilings, or frames. Typical use cases include strict rental agreements, temporary living situations, and room dividers in open areas.

These options have real limitations. They work for specific situations but are not substitutes for proper mounting when that is available.

Adhesive Hooks

Without the use of a drill, a heavy-duty adhesive hook can hold up a curtain rod. The weight capacity of the hook is determined by the rating of the hook and the surface quality. The best adhesion will come from clean, smooth, painted walls. Textured walls, wallpaper, and porous surfaces will notably decrease the holding strength.

Curtains can be tough even for the best adhesive hooks. Hooks that can hold 15 pounds at a vertical pull will probably still fail if a curtain rod is put on because that rod will exert significant outward pull. The physics simply are not on your side. These work for sheers on smooth walls and not much else.

Cost: $10 to $20 for a pack of hooks rated for curtain use.

Tools needed: None, however rubbing alcohol for surface cleaning does help adhesion. Installation time is 10 minutes, plus 24 hours of curing time before you can hang the curtains.

Over-the-Frame Hooks

These hooks hang over the top of a door or window frame, supporting a lightweight rod below. No attachment required at all. They work best for doorways and interior openings where a small gap at the top doesn't matter.

Cost: $10 to $25.

Tools needed: None. Instant installation.

Freestanding Curtain Frames

Room divider frames stand on the floor and support curtains without touching walls or ceilings. These function more as furniture than window treatments. Dorm rooms, studios, and temporary spaces use these when no other mounting works.

Cost: $40 to $150 depending on size and materials.

Tools needed: Usually just assembly with included hardware. 15 to 30 minutes.

Drawbacks for all temporary options: Very limited weight capacity, less stable than attached methods, may look less polished than permanent installations.

How to Choose Your Mount Type

Start with two questions: Do you rent or own? How heavy are your curtains?

If you rent and plan to use lightweight sheers or cafe curtains, tension rods handle most situations without drama. If you rent but want heavier curtains, check your lease. Many landlords allow small holes that you patch when moving out. The deposit deduction for a few filled holes is usually less than the frustration of sagging tension rods.

If you own your home, wall mounting gives you the most options. It handles any curtain weight, lets you position curtains anywhere you want, and provides the most stable long-term solution. The hole repair if you change things later is minor.

Consider ceiling mounting if your windows leave less than 4 inches of wall space at the top, or if you want that floor-to-ceiling look. Factor in the more difficult installation and the likelihood you'll need help.

Frame-mounted options work best when you specifically want curtains contained within the window opening, or when you can't put holes in surrounding surfaces.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Overloading tension rods is the most frequent failure. People buy blackout curtains, hang them on a tension rod, and wonder why everything falls down a week later. Match your curtain weight to your mounting method's capacity.

Skipping the stud finder causes problems with wall and ceiling mounts. Drywall anchors work for lighter curtains, but heavy panels need solid backing. One bracket in a stud makes the whole installation more secure.

Forgetting to check window frame depth leads to returns. Inside-mount brackets need at least 2 inches of clearance. Measure before you buy.

Match the Method to Your Situation

Every mounting method has a trade off of installation ease vs. weight capacity vs. permanence. Renters have to stick with tension rods and adhesive options, but these have their own limitations. Homeowners have more flexibility as long as they are okay with a few holes in the wall. Know your curtain weight, check your walls or frames, and select the mounting method that actually makes sense for your situation. The hardware disappears once your curtains are up.