on November 12, 2025
Introduction
Buying curtains? You need to know what fabric blocks light, which hanging style works for daily use, what colors won't clash with your furniture, and which rods actually hold up. This guide walks through each decision.
Choose Your Fabric Type
Fabric determines how much light gets through and how often you'll clean them. Match the fabric to what you need the curtains to do.
Sheer curtains let in soft light. During the day, people outside see blurred shapes but not details. At night with your lights on, they can see in better. Cotton voile, linen sheers, and polyester sheers all work. You can layer them with blackout curtains or use them alone. They wrinkle and fade faster than thicker fabrics.
Cotton and linen curtains wrinkle easily—some people like that casual look, others don't. Machine washable but they'll shrink 2-3%, so buy extra length.
Polyester curtains are cheaper and hold their shape better. How much light they block depends on the weave, not the material.
Velvet curtains are heavy and block light well. The thick fabric also absorbs sound. You'll need strong curtain rods. Most velvet needs dry cleaning.
Blackout curtains have a coating that blocks most light—around 85-99% if installed right. The coating makes them stiff and heavy. Don't machine wash these, the coating can crack.
Example: Bedroom with morning sun and $150 budget → Blackout polyester curtains ($40-60/panel). They block light better than lined cotton and cost less than velvet.
Lining or no lining?
Unlined = just one layer of fabric. Lined = backing layer that adds weight and insulation. Blackout-lined = special layer that blocks light.
- Bedrooms: Get blackout lining if morning light wakes you up
- Living rooms: Regular lining is fine
- Sheers: Skip lining entirely
Choose Your Heading Style
Heading style is how the curtain attaches to the rod. It affects how easily you can open and close them.
Rod pocket curtains have a sewn pocket at the top that slides onto the rod. The rod disappears inside the fabric for a gathered look. They're a pain to open and close—you scrunch the fabric along the rod. Only get these for curtains that stay in one spot, like decorative panels or sheers you never touch.
Grommet curtains have metal or plastic rings at the top. The rod goes through the rings, so they slide easily with one hand. The rings create even folds that look modern and clean. Downside: they make a scraping sound when you pull them, and metal rings can scratch wood rods over time. Grommets are the most common style for ready-made curtains.
Tab top curtains use fabric loops at the top. They look casual and relaxed, good for kitchens or informal bedrooms. But they don't slide—you move each section by hand. Only works if you leave them mostly open or mostly closed.
Pinch pleat curtains have fabric folded into pleats at the top with hooks that clip onto rod rings. They look formal and traditional. They slide smoothly and create structured folds. But they need more fabric (= more money) and you have to arrange the pleats evenly every time you wash them.
Quick guide:
- Daily use → Grommet
- Rarely open → Rod pocket or tab top
- Want formal look → Pinch pleat (costs more)
Most ready-made curtains are rod pocket, grommet, or tab top. You can't change the heading style after buying—it's sewn into the curtain.
Choose Colors and Patterns
Choosing colors is simpler than it seems. Your curtains don't need to be a design statement—they just need to not look wrong.
Neutral colors are the safe choice
White, cream, beige, gray, and taupe work in most spaces. They won't clash with your furniture or look dated in 5 years. If you're unsure, go neutral. You can always add color elsewhere with pillows or art.
Light neutrals (white, cream) make rooms feel bigger and brighter. They show dirt faster, especially near windows that get opened a lot.
Dark neutrals (charcoal, navy, dark gray) hide stains better and create a cozy feel. In small rooms with limited light, they can make the space feel more enclosed—which works great for bedrooms where you want that vibe.
Using color
Colored curtains work if the rest of your room is mostly neutral. One pop of color is fine—multiple competing colors look chaotic.
Pick a color that's already in the room (from a rug, artwork, or accent chair). Don't introduce a completely new color through curtains.
When picking colors, think about contrast:
- Light curtains on dark walls create contrast and make windows stand out
- Dark curtains on light walls frame the window and add drama
- Similar tones create a cohesive, calm look
How fast colors fade depends on the fabric. Polyester holds color better in sunny windows than cotton or linen. If you go with natural fabrics in bright colors, expect some fading over time.
Example: Small living room with beige couch and white walls → Light gray or soft blue curtains add subtle interest without overwhelming. Avoid dark colors that'll make the room feel smaller.
Patterns: proceed with caution
Patterns limit your flexibility. Change your couch or paint color, and suddenly your patterned curtains don't work anymore.
That said, patterns can work in specific situations—kids' rooms, eclectic spaces, or rooms with a clear theme. Just know you're committing to a look.
If you want patterns, keep them subtle—small geometric prints, tone-on-tone stripes, or simple textures. Avoid large florals, busy prints, or anything too trendy unless you're decorating a space where personality matters more than versatility.
Horizontal stripes make windows look wider. Vertical stripes make ceilings look taller. But solid colors are easier to live with long-term.
Quick guide:
- Not sure → White, cream, or light gray
- Want cozy → Charcoal or navy
- Want color → Pick one already in the room
- Want patterns → Only if committing to a specific style
- Sunny window + bright colors → Choose polyester over cotton
Select Your Curtain Rod and Hardware
The rod is matters. A flimsy rod will sag, brackets will pull out, and your curtains won't hang right. Get this wrong and you'll be fixing it in six months.
Rod material and strength
Metal rods (steel or aluminum) are consistent—you know what you're getting. Steel is strongest but heavier. Aluminum is lighter and easier to install. Both hold up well for years.
Wood rods look warmer and work in traditional spaces. Quality varies a lot—solid wood lasts, but hollow wood rods can bow under weight. If you go wood, spend more for solid construction.
Tension rods twist to expand and press against the window frame. No drilling needed. They work for lightweight curtains on narrow windows (under 4 feet). Don't use them for anything heavy—they'll slip. Good for renters.
Rod diameter
Standard rods are 1 inch diameter. They work for most curtains up to medium weight on windows under 8 feet.
Thicker rods (1.5-2 inches) support heavy curtains better and look more substantial. Get one if you have heavy fabrics like velvet or blackout curtains.
Thin rods (5/8 inch) are for lightweight sheers only. They bend easily.
For windows over 6-8 feet, add a center support bracket to prevent sagging, regardless of rod thickness.
Single rod vs. double rod
Single rod = one curtain layer. Simple and cheap.
Double rod = two layers. Inner rod for sheers, outer rod for heavier curtains. This lets you control light throughout the day. The brackets cost more and stick out further from the wall (3-5 inches instead of 2-3 inches).
You can also layer curtains on one rod by putting both on the same rod with the sheer behind. Cheaper than double rods but harder to move them independently.
Brackets and installation
Brackets fail when they're not anchored properly. For drywall, use wall anchors or screw into a stud. Without proper anchoring, brackets pull out when you open curtains.
Mount the rod higher and wider than the window frame—this makes windows look bigger and lets you pull curtains fully open without blocking glass.
Make sure the rod clears any window trim that sticks out. If your trim is thick, you may need extension brackets to give enough clearance.
Quick guide:
- Window under 6 feet, light curtains → 1-inch metal rod
- Window over 8 feet or heavy curtains → 1.5-inch rod + center support bracket
- Want sheers + curtains → Double rod or layer on single rod
- Renting → Tension rod for light curtains only
- Thick window trim → Check if you need extension brackets
A $40 rod that stays up beats a $15 rod that fails.